October 2020 - www.woodhappiness.com

The woodworking tools list , is a very important factor in our woodworking "planet" and i'll try to cover all the basic and necessary tools you should have in your warehouse or carpender's box . You need something to shape your wood to become the plan you have in your dreams , so to have some woodworking tools is necessary . The woodworking tools for the amateur - more experienced , or the professional woodworker , are separeted into 3 column categories . We have 3 Big Woodworking Tools Categories . The most common situation is having a combination of these 3 major categories . These categories are : 1) Hand , Woodworking Tools . 2) Power Woodworking Tools . 3) Professional Carpentry - Machine Tools . Don't you forget the differences between , the several metric standarts of your continent . In Europe we measure with cm , in the US with inches , et.c . Of course the measuring woodworking tools know these differences , that's why you see all the different types above them . They are universal made . Woodworking tools , list : Here is the list , you should have from the level of the tree to a finished woodworking project , for an amateur or a professional woodworker : 1) Buy or make a Woodworking Bench . It's maybe the most significant carpentry equipment for you . It should be very stable , in order to make your wood jobs . There are many bench attached vices ( leg vice - shoulder - tail - wagon - end ) and they are all be very well attached to the bench . The bench's working main vice , in which you stabilize your wood piece and you drill it , plan it , et.c , is the basic "column" of all . The bench's height , as i've told you many times should be in the height of your belly button , in order not to bent your back . Its length and widerness should be at around 20''wide and at around to 6 - 8 feet long . It's up to you . Be careful that its "legs" to be in the same height(not higher) to the upper surface , so the "legs" won't be a problem when you put a wood part on it . Mostly woodworking benches are made from yew wood . See my top workbench suggestions for you to purchase in HERE . 2) Buy a Vice , to attach to your woodworking bench . Except the vices your bench would have on , you should buy and attach a classical metalic vice( a good steel one ) , in one of its edges . It's a very helpful assistant , in order to use a file , a rasp , to cut something , to stabilize materials in general . See my top vice suggestions for you , in HERE . 3) Buy - Have a Storage System for your tools ( + a toolbox ). A storage system to have your wood tools and equipment organized is a another basic part for you , no matter if you are an amateur woodworker or not . A well organized place , will keep you calm to act carpentry and the most important : you won't lose tools and you'll always know where you put them . A toolbox in order to be more flexible and portable is needed . 4) Axes - Cleavers - electric Chainsaws . When you want to cut a tree , shape it and transfer it to your warehouse , you cannot do that without some axes , a electrical chainsaw and some cleavers . Be careful concerning your safety measures and never underestimate the "bad moment" . These tools can make huge damage to a human's body . 5) A Moisture meter . A moisture meter is a very helpful assistant for many jobs . Wood changes shape , while is drying and we need to know how dry is our wood , to work with it , to paint it , to polish it , et.c . 6) A metal detector . When you'll start to cut an unknown wood part this is may be dangerous for you , but there is a way a metal detector will be a great helper , for you . I've written an article explaining this , read it in HERE . 7) The folding rule , made from wood . In its two sides you'll see that inches - feet or cm . It's the most popular carpender's meter and it's very useful . Because of its stability , you can measure straight wooden surfaces . It's biggest property is its stability and it fits in your pockets , very well . See more of my top ruler suggestions in HERE . 8) The classic flexible meter , made from more flexible materials . You can find smaller meters in the markets with specific dimensions , made from steel , aluminum , flexible plastic . It's more portable and you can use it for wood plans in which you don't need a more flexible meter , to measure arcs, curves , et.c . 9) The retractable Tape type meter . The bigger benefit from this is that you can measure curves , circles , et.c , in big lengths and distances at the same time . You cannot only measure very long distances ( more than the folding - flexible meters ) , but you can measure curved surfaces . If you are very careful and you have someone to help you , you can measure curved surfaces with very good accuracy . They are made from aluminum mostly and they need zero maintenance . Just don't hit it with something heavy , or droped it from a very highly spot . They are very conviently , light , small and easy to carry by anyone . 10) Metal rulers . Metal Measures Workshop Flexible Metal Ruler It's very convenient to have some , metal rullers . You can have a small 6'' one and a couple of bigger ones at around 10'' to 18'' . They'll give you fast measuring , they are light and you can carry them easily . 11) The Level tool . Verticality is a very serious matter for all the woodworkers and should be for you also . Who wants a wooden table , library , desk , chair or whatever you may want to create , being awry ? I think noone . To avoid these kind of embarrasing situations , the level tool should be inside your carpender's box , no matter what . *** Tip to check the verticality if you don't have a level tool with you . If for any reason you don't have a level tool with you and you need to check the verticality of you lines , use gravity . Tie a big screw or a pin with a rope and let it free to the ground . This line is totally vertical driven by gravity . Check the if your lines are parallel to it and your work is done . 12)The Caliper - digital caliper . Many times and especially when you want to connect your wooden surfaces , you'll need to measure the thickness of these surfaces . You'll need the best possible accuracy and you'll need to know how "fat" is your wood . For this you should us the caliper tools . In the markets you'll find nowdays caliper tools and digital calipers in very low prices . The digital calipers will give you more accuracy . See some of my top caliper suggestions for you , in HERE . 13) The carpenter's Pencil . Yes , the so "common" carpender's pencil is a must for you and it's preferable to have a good quality's pencil . See some of the top pencils & lead holders in HERE . You'll be able to sharpen it more easily and the marks it'll make will be very accurate . The wooden pencils are made mostly from Red Cedar , which you can find in Kenya and the US of course . In California's Sierra Nevada Mountains . You can find a very high quality's cedar wood and if you ever had a woodoworker's pencil from this kind of wood , you know what i mean . Your wood pencil and your accurate maths , to measure , cut and connect your woodwoking projects , are the "lighthouses" of your plans . So never underestimate , these small "details" and if you want to see why the carpenter's pencil is flat and not round , see it in HERE . 14) A Marking knife . When you'll make joints you'll need to be very accurate . In here the marking knife , combined with other measuring tools , can do the job and be certain that it's a sharp one . See some very nice marking & striking knife suggestions , in HERE . 15) Awls . The awl , if it has a sharpen edge can mark wood very accurate and do your "job" , very easily . 16) Dividers (compasses) . The dividers are used for taking accurate measures , transfer these measures and they are very useful when you make your moulding measures , to "describe" an arc . If you want the best of accuracy have the ones which are adjusted with the screw . See some of my favorite dividers , in HERE . 17) Protractor . Protractor is a very useful tool , in which you can take very accurate angle measures for your edge wood tools . It's made from aluminum . See some very nive protractors - dovetail markers , et.c , in HERE . 18) Dovetail marker . Dovetail needs great accuracy and the dovetail marker , will help you to this . Of course you can do it manually with your tools , but it's nice to have a marker this kind . 19) Create/Have a Straight edge . When you want to measure the flatness of your wooden board in the edges and in front , it's very helpful to have - make a straight edge tool . You can make them by yourself from wood , but they can be found in metal too . Have some straight edges and they have usually 1m length . They are in the big rulers "family" . 20) Make & have a Winding stick . Another testing board woodworking tools is the winding tool . You use it when you want to identify if your board is twisted . They are like the straight edges . See some top straightedge & winding stick suggestions in HERE . 21) Make on your own a Diagonal testing stick . When you're about to finish and glue your wood plan you need to check its squareness . This stick is put diagonal to your frame , - box and does the job . 22) Double squares . The double squares are like the below combination ones , but without the comfort of marking 45' degrees using their ball bearing surface . See All the types of squares in my suggestions for buying in HERE . 23) Combination squares . They more flexible than the classic squares . They have a movable bar , which you can slide and mark several lengths on wood . You can also mark 450&900 degrees angles using their ball bearing surface . 24) Buy or create Try squares . You can have "vintage" ones from metal or wood . Of course you may need to check their squareness , because they are kind of "old" ones . How to do that ? Put your square in the edge of a board and draw a line , using the inside . Then flip over it and try to mark on the same line . If you can , the square , is ok . Of course you can make your own squares . 25) Framing square . Framing squares , are big squares . They are longer and you can measure the squareness in bigger boards , frames , et.c . They aren't so accurate as the try squares are , because the dimensions are bigger , but they should have accurate squareness . They're used in the lumber work much and in bigger wood constructions . 26) Sliding T-Bevel squares . They are the best for tranfer and keep stable an angle when you make joints ( dovetail ,et.c) . They are very helpful and try to avoid the brass made . You may find it diffcult to stabilize it , cause of the brass material . 27) Marking gauges . Tool Gauge (ca.1939) by Chris Makrenos. Original from The National Gallery of Art. Digitally enhanced by rawpixel. When you want to mark reference lines for your joints , you use gauges . They mark wood using a pin most of the times , but there are more types of gauges , using sharp wheels for marking et. c . See All the range of marking gauges in my top suggestions , HERE . 28) Mortise Gauge . The difference with the marking gauges is that they have two pins to mark wood , instead of one . 29) Create or buy a Panel gauge . It's a gauge that it's way bigger than the traditional ones and you can mark wood boards in big distances . 30) Feeler gauge . The feeler point is combined with the straight edges . You put it between the straight edge and the wooden surface and you check the gap . Some of the best feeler gauges in HERE . 31) Buy a nail set for your pins . When you want to put more deeper in your wooden surface your pins you need a helper and a nail set is useful . You just hit a little more the "head" of your pin and the job is done . 32) Panel hand saws . ( most common handsaw .) Unavoidable the "king" of the woodworking tools are the handsaws . There are so many , so different and we use them to cut our wood logs , branches , et.c . They are made by a steel surface/blade , which has the "teeth" of the saw and it's attatched to a handle . The handle of the saw can be from wood , plastic , several synthetic plastic pieces , et.c . The saws have several sizes depending the job you want to do with them . You can see saws , which can cut very large tropical tree trunks and you can see little ones which they cut extremely accurate . See some of my best panel saws - back saws & frame saw suggestions in HERE . 33) Back saws . They are made for more precise cuts , so as you can imagine they have large TPI ( teeth per inch ) , in order to be precise . Their backs are metalic , so the saw won't bent from cuttings . 34) Frame Saws . When you need tough and large cuttings of a log , a big board , or a tree's trunk you use the frame saws . 35) Keyhole hand saws . This saw makes entire holes in your wood and can shape wood inside a pre-cut hole in a wooden surface . 36) Dovetail saw . These saws are made from accurate joinery cutts . They have a metalic back in order to be very stable and they are the smallest bakc saws . They cut along with the wood's fibers and this joint "mission" is very significant . 37) Crosscut /Carcass Saw . This is a back saw which cuts wood across with its grain . It's a joinery saw and it's a very necessary one . It has small teeth and it cuts , very precise . 38) Ripping hand saws . This saws are made ot cut along with the wood's fibers . It is the bigger back saw and it's a another basic hand saw you should have . 39) Combination of ripping-crosscut hand saws . Of course you can have combination saw to rip and crosscut with the same ability . 40) Coping saw . Carpentry Blade Saw Hacksaw Equipment Tool The coping saw is something you'll remember for sure from your school years . It's a tiny cutting blade between a metalic frame , we used to make our amateur wood carvings . It's for small and precise jobs - joineny and shape inside(or not) the wood's surface with accuracy . 41) Bow Saw . It's like the coping saw , but larger . They have the same cutting philoshophy , but this can cut bigger pieces . 42) Miter Box . The miter box is a metalic(many times) - wooden - plastic frame , that can hold inside it a back saw , so you can make very accurate cutts . It's very useful and it'll help you the most to be "surgical" . See some best miter box suggestion in HERE . *** The Japanese style hand saw for extremely precise cuts should not be missing from any warehouse . It make very detailed and accurate cuts . Some Tips for the hand saw's "teeth" : a) If your saw's "teeth" lean backwards to the handle of the saw , the saw cuts when you drag it to your body . If the saw's "teeth" lean forward , the "teeth" are cutting when you push your saw . b) The bigger the hand saw , the bigger their teeth and with large inclination . c) The smaller saws are made for the best possible accuracy and that's why you'll see that they have more Teeth Per Inch (TPI) . In the labels of your saw you'll see among others , a number for the TPI . It's how many "teeth" they have per inch . The more "teeth" , the more accurate it cuts . d) Before you start your cutting with your saw and if the wooden piece is a "hard" wood , if you lubricate the blade of the saw , you'll see how easily you'll cut your piece . If you stuck during the cutting proccess , use lubrication again . e) If you want to cut more easily and don't put much power ot your saw , try to have the saw , your shoulder and your hand in the same straight line . f) Use the appropriate hand saw for the specific work you want to do . Don't "mix" the hand saws , because "it's ok to cut a little thing here and then i'll go and take the correct saw" . You'll damage the "teeth" . g) Start your cutting very lightly and then escalate your power . You don't want to cut awry by using extreme power at the beginning . If you want more accuracy , mark with your pencil the starting of the cut and the end of it , so your eye be focused straight . Hammers exist in several weights and from several materials . Here is a very serious "law" , and all carpenters follow it . You never hit wood with a metalic hammer . You'll damage the surface of the wood and this is irreversible . If you want to hit your wood to make your adjustments , you should always use the carpenter's mallet and soft ( from silicone , rubber ,et.c ) ones . 43) The carver's wood Mallet . It's a more "elegant" mallet then the classic mallets . The carpenters use it to hit their chisels , it's mostly a round or "roundish" mallets . They aren't too heavy , in order to hit "surgical" your chisel . Of course you can make on your own or buy one . 44) Rubber Mallets . Of course you'll need some rubber, silikone mallets to make your adjustment hits . Try to have some and not the cheapest ones , because you'll need enough "softness" during your hits . The more cheap ones , are kind of stiff and hard . Another benefit of a good quality rubber mallet , is that the material won't leave marks/spots in your wood . 45) Joinery mallet & some big and bigger ones of several types . The classical joinery mallet ( the "English type" ) is a must for your mallets supplies . They are made from oak mostly and you hit chisels with them . They are very beautiful also . 46) Have a small metalic hammer , for "surgical" hits . A small hammer for your small and detailed hits , is necessary . You'll need to make tiny-small adjustments in general , adjust your chisel's blades , et.c . Have one or many , they aren't expensive . 47) Claw hammer . Even if its hitting side isn't totally flat for hitting your nails , it's the most classical hammer and exists in all warehouses and carpentry places . It's a heavy-duty hammers for all your hits , it needs attention when you pegging your pins and of course you can put out a pin from a wooden surface , very easily without hurting the wood . 48) Bench chisels . They are the most common chisels , everybody has seen . You can do many sculptures-shapes with them . We mainly make our wood joints with them , but not only that . Of course they are made from good's quality steel . See my top chisel suggestions for you , in HERE . 49) Mortise chisels . These ones are used to make mortises , to wood . Their cutting ability is big . 50) Paring Chisels . These are the chisels you can use for your delicate wood slicing . They're more elegent created and you can use them to make small-tiny , "surgical" wood slices . In here their steel should be a very nice quality's one , in order to be sharpened more accurate . 51) Corner chisels . Their blade is cornered-angled and we use them to square mortises . 52) Dovetail chisels . We use them mostly to make the mortise and tenon joint , but there are capable to other chisel jobs . 53) Classical bench planes . The wooden planes/planers are used to flatten/"eat" our wooden surfaces and make them smooth to the hand's touch . They are "ancient" woodworking tools and the old days were made mostly from "hard" wood , the majority of the times , it was yew wood . The sharpening and the correct adjustment of the cutting blade which is underneath the plane , are the "secrets" to make our life easy . You work above your bench with them , flattening , smoothing , shaping wood . Jack , block , smoothing , try planes , low angle , et.c exist . I've picked some best plane choices to buy , in HERE . 54) Buy Joinery planes . You use these planes to create or finish your joins . There are many types of them ( router , shoulder , et.c ) 55) Have some molding planes . If you want to cut a design decorative cut in you wooden board , you use these planes . 56) Have some Combination planes . We use them for many planing jobs and there are very capable woodworking missions . 57) Hand Brace & bits. It's the traditional way to make your wooden holes , manually . You can find and buy antique hand braces , but not only . They're combined with drills of course in several diameters and they moved by a rachet . See a more extended & helpful post for brace , bits hand drills & more info , in HERE . 58) Bits to make your holes . Of course you'll need to purchase many drils , depending your holes you want to create . Have as many as you can and don't forget a file to sharpen them , when it's needed . 59) The Egg beater style manual hand drill . This wood tools is so beautiful and you use it to make very precise holes . Its gear moved mechanism is designed wisely for perfect drilling . 60) Have as many drill bits , as you can . For both your hand brace and your egg beater drill , try to have as many , as you can and always specified for wood drilling , not other material . 61) T-handle hand auger drill . Auger (1938) by Alfonso Moreno. Original from The National Gallery of Art. Digitally enhanced by rawpixel. It's a heavy-duty drill and you see it drilling large holes in all the types of wood . Ok , it's maybe not so precise , but it can drill anything . Logs , tree trunks , tough boards , et.c . If you deside to make a woodworking bench you'll need one of this . See some top T - handle augers to supply , in HERE . 62) The Bandsaw . It's a blade which is rolling between two pulleys and cuts wood . It's for tough ripping , it combines many cuttings and it can cut curves , difficult or not . It's depth capacity ( how far the blade is exposed between the pulleys) are to 4 - 10 inches . It makes the job of the ripping hand saws , but with less sweat . See and purchase my favorite bandsaw choices , in HERE . 63) Buy a Table Saw . In here the blade comes from below/inside the table and you can adjust the depth and the angles . You'll use it to make your wood's - boards squares . You can have a cabinet one , in which the motor is enclosed in a lower cabinet and it's belt driven with pulleys . You also can have a benchtop table saw for lighter duty , but portable . It's the favorite wood tool in the constructions area . Be careful for its safety , its power , its ripping and crosscutting ability and the general quality of the cutting . Some of the best table saw buying choices , in HERE . 64) Buy a Circular Saw . Work Build Circular Saw Saw Man Carpenter Jobs We have the ripping saws( cuts along with wood's grain ) , we have the crosscut ( cuts across the grain ) and we have the combination of these two . It's usually 7-10 inches . See some of my favorite circular saw for you to buy , in HERE . 65) Buy a Power Miter Saw . It's like a circular saw but attached to an "arm" . It has a 10 inches diameter and makes very accurate cuts . See some of the best miter saw buying choices in HERE . 66) Buy a Drill Press . Accuracy and precise drills is something the drill press does . You can have a bench drill press or a portable one ( standing floor alone ) . Adjustments for its depth and speed are "welcomed" and very useful . Try to buy good's quality drill bits for your press . They play significant role . 67) Buy Router & Bits . We use it , to shape and "dig" whatever shape patterns - artistic holes , et.c we want , in every wood type . It's super useful power tool . 68) Buy a Power Pointer . We use it , to flatte the edges and the face of our boards and of course it's a basic power tool . 69) Buy a Thickness Planer . The thickness planer makes your board planed perfectly for its entire mass . It's very importand for your boards perfection and there are many varieties for them . Bench top , alone standing , combination with jointer machines , having several thickness capacities and power capabilities . Some of the best thickness planer choices you can find in the stores , in HERE . 70) Buy a Dust Collector system . The wood's dust is so thin , thinner than the road's dust , the soil's dust , et.c . When you rub and shape your wood , these tiny dust molecules , are entering your lungs from your breathing . This is very bad for your health . Except the other safety measures you should take , a top quality's dust collector is needed . 71) The Jigsaw . It makes intricate cuts , straight - curved , whatever . It can be used with one hand while the other it holds the wood and makes fast cuts . We cut veneer with jigsaws and more . 72) Have an Orbital Sander . It's the quick way for your sanding process . The variety they have is endless and of course you can have many types of them . 73) Spokeshaves . Wherever you need to plane a wood's curved surface . Yes, they are small handplanes to smoothen aand shape your wood , when it's curved and you want a big level of precision . They are several types of spokeshaves , in order to cut a lot or make more elegant wood planing . If you want some of the best spokeshaves to supply , go in HERE . 74) Raps & Files . The rasp have coarse teeth and they made ot remove a lot of wood material and the files are for more smoothing adjusting jobs . I've picked some top rasp suggestions for you to buy , in HERE . There are half-round files , with a flat and a curved side . The mill ones , which are flat in both sides . The files are used after the rasp work with wood . They smoothen the surface because the rasp are leaving rough marks on wood which need refined . I've chosen some top files for you to get , in HERE . 75) Drawknives . When you want to shape your freshly cut wood , you use the drawknife . Usually you stabilize the wood in your shaving horse and you slicing wood layers , using your drawknife . They have many shapes and handles , choose what fits to you . Many drawknive brands outhere , i've picked some of my top to buy , in HERE . 76) Hand screw Clamps . They are made from wood ( they don't hurt wood ) and their two wood "jaws" are attached together with big screws on a wooden handle . They are very useful , while you want to glue two pieces and in general they help a lot . These clampls and a vice can do many holding wood jobs . 77) Parallel Clamps . Their "jaws" have big opening and they can hold big wood pieces . They put equal pressure to your materials and they are very helpful . 78) F-type Clamps . Rusted Rusty Screw Clamp Compress Tool Craft If you want to put more holding pressure to a specific wooden spot , the F-type clamps are the best for the job. They have many sizes and they're cheap . 79) C-type Clamps . Free public domain CC0 photo. When you make smaller wood projects and you want much holding power , the C-type clamp is the appropriate clamp for you . As an amateur or a more experiened woodworker you'll need some "helpers" in your warehouse and your carpenter's tools box . These finishing - sanding , helpers are going to make your wood plans perfect , by fixing and sculpturing the last details . 80) Sharpening tools equipment . Your tools will need sharpening for sure and the water stones , sandpaper sharpeners , edge grinders , water cooled grinders , sharpening discs , diamond plates and more are the sharpening tools you'll need to purchase . See how can you sharpen handsaws all alone , in HERE . 81) Sanpapers . You use them to make your wood's surface smooth and polish it , varnish it , finish it , et.c . There are many types of sandpapers( aluminum , ceramic , garnet , et.c ) and with different hardnesses . Have many of them . I've picked some top sandpapers - abrasives - scraper cards , et.c , to purchase , in HERE . 82) Abrasive pads . The abrasives are necessary for your woodworking finishing - coating - polishing - smoothing more - removing old varnishes , et.c , jobs . Their prices are very reasonable and you should have many supplies from them . 83) Wood Fillers . The wood's filler , fils the pores of your wood , when you need to . Many times you see gaps in your wood you want to fix , but mostly the filler is used before your final wood finishes , as a pre-layer . In that way your last layer will have the same thickness and looks . Usually before we paint wood with an oiled based color , we use wood filler to fil the pores of the surface , paint much easier and have a better looks resuilt . And in many other cases . See the best wood fillers , wax sticks , grain fillers , in HERE . 84) Wax pencil type , fillers . The wood pencil filler can fill gaps , holes and in general discontinuities to a wooden surface . Then you can plan your wood , sand it , paint it , et.c . 85) Wood stains & dyes . We use stains and dyes to color our wood and pop out its fibers and nice "waters" . In here the variety are huge and combined with the finishing oils , we give to wood our personal preferences . See some top dyes , varnishes , stains , et.c suggestions , in HERE . 86) Wood glue . It's always a helpful auxiliary tool for you . It makes your connections more stable and gives a some level of stability to your wood connect combinations . Have a nice quality's one and use it in wherever you judge it's needed . I use some in all of my joints , even when the joint is a very stable one . 87) Dowel Joints - biscuits ( many thicknesses & lengths ) . It's the main part of many of your joinery activities . They exist in several sizes , thicknesses . Have many . 88) Buy screw - pins , Screwdrivers . These materials are basic ones and with these you can make your first wood connections , the basic ones . Don't "underestimate" them . Have many and be careful . Use only the appropriate screws for wood , not other material . It's very easy to be confused with the variety of pins in the markets . 89) Screw gun . The screw gun willmake your daily life way more easier . You can do so many things with it without sweating . 90) Several finishing/protecting oils ( I like the linseed a lot for inside woodcrafts . ) This is a very big woodworking chapter and it has many misunderstandings . What to do for the indoors ? What to do for the outdoors ? What material to use , physical or chemical ? Just in here , remember this : For the indoors wooden furniture - projects you can use oils ( linseed , tung , danish , et.c ) wax and their combination . See some best oils & waxes & shellac to preserve naturally your wood , in HERE . For the outdoors in the several weather conditions , "things" are more complex and the use of the modern chemical stuff is needed . If you want the best dyes - stains - paint , et.c , to purchase for your wood protection , go HERE . Maintenance advices - tips : Correct and continuous maintenance all your woodworking tools will need from you . One of the biggest "enemy" for your woodworking tools is moisture , water and eventually rust . So after the hours , you'll spend with them you must clean them very carefully and slightly lubricate them . You should never store all your tools together , because they "hurt" one another . If you put your hammers and axes with your hand saws , the certain thing is the the "teeth" of your saws , will get awry and this is bad for them . Have your saws "hung" in your warehouse's wall is better . Avoid to use the "wrong" woodworking tool , for a specific "mission" . Every wood project has its appropriate and "correct" tool . Don't get bored to go to the other side of your warehouse to get the correct tool . I say that because countless times i do that myself (!) . Take care the metalic parts of your woodworking tools , and don't forget the wooden parts of them . The wooden handles of them , maintenance too anda wood's finishing oil ,would be ideal for them . Yes i know that all of us the woodworkers the majority of times , we forget the wooden parts of our woodworking tools , because they are kind of small , but this "trap" we must avoid . It's very easy to take care of them an try not to neglect them . They are "participate" in the good condition of our tools and if you've ever tried to cut a branch with a "handle shaking" hand saw , you know what i mean . In my opinion the most correct and eco - friendly way to protect the wooden parts of your woodworking tools , is the use of the finishing oils and waxes and not chemical ways . Remember that you'll be in very close contact with them , in a variety of difficult conditions ( sweat , heat , et.c ) and your skin's health shouldn't be "involved" with chemicals , for long time periods . I've written a helpful post for the 100% natural wood protection , remember it in HERE . Keep Woodworking and gain tons of happiness.